We met our first end to enders today at breakfast- a couple of New Zealanders living in the UK fundraising for the survivors of the Christchurch earthquake. We later saw another couple of people with the signature paniers on their bicycles.
The bed and breakfast house we were in overnight was interesting - it had been built for a doctor and the current owner had some of the bills for medical services. Some were for £5 which for 1905 would have been a lot of money.
After the drenching and freezing we got yesterday, we were delighted to start off the day with no rain and not much wind. We took the old single track road to Lairg. This goes past the falls of Shinn, reputed to be spectacular. We cycled down the track we thought would take us to the falls, but ended back out on the road having only heard the falls. Aware we still had a big distance to go, we pressed on.
Through Lairg and on we went, soon on the single track roads that lead to the north coast. These roads also have the most enormous cattle grids. We stopped for a break at the bridge at Altnaharra, with fantastic views over the river down to Loch Naver.
Up the side of the Loch then and up to Bettyhill on the north coast. All morning we cycled through enchanting landscapes that unfolded before our eyes. Free from the distractions of traffic and on mostly good surfaces, we made good time.
The view of Torrisdale bay from Bettyhill was fantastic. Great dark waves came crashing against the golden sands, while the coastline cliffs stand like sentinels watching out to sea. We stood watching the view for about as long as it's taken you to read this paragraph before feeling cold in the cold wind and going to find some shelter to finish our lunch. Today, this came from the Bettyhill shop that stocks everything imaginable in a small space. It has to, given that it serves a very remote community.
While we were finishing lunch, the first few drops of rain fell. By the time half an hour had passed, the rain was well and truly on. From then on, we were looking for bus shelters in which to take our breaks. There was definitely no incentive to dawdle, and we pressed on to Thurso, arriving about 6. On this our last big day of cycling we did 86 miles.
We are now 20 miles from John o'Groats- the end is in sight.
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